How to cook a New Zealand crayfish dinner
Photo Helen Bankers
Take six nice people, we used Swedes, but any good natured and well spirited kind will do,
and add a magnum Penfold’s Shiraz 1991
a magnum Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 1998
a bottle of tawny Port 199 and a bottle or two of sparkling mineral water open the wine to allow slow sipping while cooking then take
3 live large New Zealand crayfish, perhaps 6 kilo or so throw in
2 tender French racks of lamb, just in case someone wants to taste the Shiraz with a bite of meat and also
a pile of raw and very fresh Pacific prawns, perhaps a kilo or so
and a generous handful of fresh New Zealand scallops, a little more than half a kilo perhaps and for vegetables
a good heap of fresh broccolini (or asparagus, as the season and your taste directs)
that’s it for the main, plus
olive oil
salt
pepper
For the mayonnaise, take
3 tbsp white vinegara small shallot, finely chopped and heat until most of the vinegar has evaporated, pour into a food processor and then add 6 very fresh egg yolks from free range hens2 tsp mustard of your choice, perhaps a whole grain one mix quickly and then gradually add 1 cup good olive oil then add salt and peppera few drops fresh lime juice
and at the very end, a bunch of freshly chopped dill put aside in the fridge for now
Now, for dessert
Well, you don’t want to spend all your energy cooking, so get yourself to Rocket Kitchen in Ponsonby Road and buy a whole baked passionfruit cheesecake (yes, it’s heavy, but you will be rewarded for the work of carrying it home)
3 punnets of fresh raspberries
And so the real work can begin! You will already have opened the wine, so select your sommelier, wine butler. This is an important role: “A sommelier deals with the table more than anyone else in the restaurant - selling the wine, topping up glasses […] there to provide and sell an experience. It is important to understand the customer, to make [them] feel at ease.”
Here, the sommelier will ensure that no glass is ever empty. Take some time to savour the first mouthfuls of wine. Make a toast for less fortunate absent friends. Get to work. Pick the butcher. This should be the strongest person in the group. Not because of the act of slaughter – this involves drowning the crayfish in fresh water, a quick and easy process – but because of the splitting of the bastards. This will require a heavy and well sharpened knife, machete type. The remaining team has an important role to play here in providing support and encouragement. And wipe up the mess. There, done. Admire the six halves. Now, select the person in charge of the barbecue. This role requires patience, alertness and some measurement of creativity, or ability to improvise. If using a charcoal barbeque, this will have to be started well in advance. If using gas, ten minutes will do. Brush the cut side of the crayfish with olive oil and sprinkle with ground sea salt and place on the barbeque, split side down. Time to face the little lamb racks, which should have been resting at room temperature. Peel and slice a couple of garlic cloves. Make insitions between the lamb cutlets with a small sharp knife and insert the slivers of garlic. Rub the meat with rosemary and salt. This can be done at any stage early on, as convenient. Steal a little spot on the side of the barbeque for the racks and barbeque till just cooked and still pink inside. The meat should feel soft when lightly pressed with a finger. Place aside and cover with tinfoil while the crayfish is cooking. Now turn your focus to the vegetables. Have a sip of wine while washing the broccolini. Heat salted water in a wide pot, bring to the boil and then turn the heat down. Don’t add the broccolini yet.
Set the table if you haven’t already. Check that the barbecue chef is in control. Top up his glass. Make sure he turns the crayfish when it has been lightly burnt and lets them finish cooking face up. Now, who is the prawn master? Time to heat a generous skillet, preferably a cast iron one. Rub with olive oil and heat till very hot. Add a generous handful of coarse sea salt, then throw in the prawns, unshelled. Cook until just done. Turn often. Heap onto a serving plate. At the same time, heat another, smaller skillet, throw in the scallops and when just cooked – this is a very quick process - add thin slices of fresh butter and a little salt. Put aside on a serving plate. Allow snacking on the prawns and the scallops if people are so inclined. No plates will be required, just a bowl for the prawn shells and some paper tissues. Now bring the water to the boil for the broccolini and cook till just done, al dente. Now, find a serving plate large enough to hold the six halved crayfish. Decorate with fresh dill, if time allows. Put all on the table. Don’t forget the mayonnaise in the fridge! You may wish to add a small bowl of lime wedges.
The feast can begin! Take your time, pause to watch the sunset reflect against the skyline of downtown Auckland. Make sure to rest in-between courses. Set aside time to clean up all the leftovers from the seafood before embarking on the dessert. Then, much later, a cup of dark espresso, perhaps spiced with a little cardamom and accompanied by a little fine cognac will feel just right. By then, the moon will be up, giving the lit Sky Tower competition.
And all will be well.
Photo Helen Bankers
